An apple a day may keep the doctor away, and the same idea applies to Vitamin C.
As an adult you already know that vitamin C is good for your body. Found in some vegetables as well as citrus fruits such as grapefruits and oranges, many people swear by it during cold and flu season.
While vitamin C is good for your body, it also has plenty of benefits when applied topically to the face.
In fact, it is one of the most widely recommended ingredients by dermatologists.
Here’s a closer look at what vitamin C is, and what it can do for your skin.
What is Vitamin C?
Vitamin C is also known as ascorbic acid. It is found in vegetables and citrus fruits such as limes, oranges and grapefruits, red and green peppers, tomatoes, broccoli, and certain greens such as kale and snow peas.
According to the National Institute of Health, vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is a water soluble nutrient. Bodies need it to form muscle and collagen, which assists in wound healing and keeping skin looking plump and a firm.
Vitamin C is also considered to be an antioxidant in the body and according to the Mayo Clinic, may help protect against damaging free radicals. Vitamin C is found in citrus fruit as well as broccoli, peppers, baked potatoes, and tomatoes.
Vitamin C is found naturally in the skin. In a 2017 article, the authors note that ‘normal skin contains high concentrations of vitamin C, which supports important and well-known functions, stimulating collagen synthesis and assisting in antioxidant protection against UV-induced photodamage.’
What Is Topical Vitamin C?
The vitamin C found in skincare products is usually listed as ascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphatem ascorbyl palmitate and retinyl ascorbate. The most commonly used is L-ascorbic acid, and it is also the most researched.
According to the University of Wisconsin-Madison, L-ascorbic acid is the purest and most potent form of vitamin C, and the only version of it that can fully be absorbed by the skin. ‘Once L-ascorbic acid is applied to the skin it is immediately absorbed, cannot be washed off, and will remain in the skin for up to 72 hours.’
Vitamin C is found in a wide variety of beauty products.
The most common is a serum, but it is also available in a powder from.
Vitamin C can also be found in certain moisturizers, toners, face mists, oils, masks and cleansers.
Many eye creams are also formulated with vitamin C to help prevent fine lines and protect against the sun, while also targeting dark circles.
We recommend using topical vitamin c in a serum form.
What Are The Benefits of Vitamin C?
Vitamin C offers a wide range of benefits to the skin. It’s often called a “hero” or “superpower” ingredient because of all that it can do. Many skincare experts would argue that if you had to pare down a beauty routine to the bare essentials, it would include a retinol as well as a vitamin C.
Here’s why.
Vitamin C helps visibly improve everything from skin texture to tone, and targets inflammation as well as hyper pigmentation. The topical application of vitamin C can work to visibly smooth and firm skin, as it helps support collagen production, which is the critical for giving skin firmness and strength.
This miracle worker can also help fend off the signs of aging by fighting free radicals as well as reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
It’s also an important part of a healthy and safe skin routine, as it provides enhanced protection against UV exposure – but remember that it shouldn’t take the place of sunscreen. Think of it as an enhancement. A dose of vitamin C can help skin look brighter and tighter, and help achieve that healthy, radiant glow. Hydration is also boosted thanks to vitamin C, which helps to enhance the protective barrier function of the skin. This means skin retains moisture for longer.
Vitamin C also helps visibly fade dark marks, sun spots and smooth over acne scars.
Vitamin C basically acts as a gentle, natural bleaching agent which can help fade hyperpigmentation as well as dark under-eye circles.
This powerhouse ingredient that can help improve the appearance of the skin in multiple ways, making it an ideal product to bring into any skincare regime. Studies discussed in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology have outlined the benefits of topical vitamin C treatments.
Their research found evidence that topical vitamin C may help diminish the visibility of pigmentation, is involved in the collagen production process, may be involved in inflammation, reduce the sun’s effects on the skin, and maintain skin barrier integrity.
Exfoliator
Vitamin C is best known for helping to make the skin look brighter. Since vitamin C is an acid, it helps whisk away dead skin cells, which leaves the face looking smoother and brighter, and feeling softer. It may also inhibit melanin production, which results in skin looking brighter. Regular use may also help to minimize the appearance of fine lines due to cell turnover.
Brightening
Vitamin C helps brighten skin and helps fade age spots andsun spots . Vitamin C basically acts as a gentle, natural brightening agent which can help fade hyperpigmentation as well as dark under-eye circles.
Antioxidant
Environmental factors such as radiation from the sun, UVA and UVB, pollution, smoking, and diet can put the skin in a state of oxidative stress. Oxidative stress produces an imbalance in the levels of molecules called free radicals. This imbalance may lead to damage of cells and tissues within the body.
Free radicals, also called reactive oxygen species or ROS, are a natural by-product of the body’s chemical processes. Think of them as your body’s waste. Free radicals can accumulate and create an imbalance.
This imbalance has been studied for its links with many diseases and its role in the aging process. As an antioxidant, vitamin C is thought to reduce the effects of oxidative stress by neutralizing the free radical molecules and rebalancing their levels in the body.
Vitamin C and sun damage
When skin is exposed to UV light, it can produce free radicals. Free radicals are involved in a cascade of events that have been suggested to reduce the amount of collagen the body produces, increase cellular damage, and may cause harm to the DNA within the cell.
The effects of free radicals on the skin result in the appearance of deep wrinkles, pigmentation, and loss of elasticity. These changes also tend to be associated with the natural decrease in collagen production and sun damage as we age.
As an antioxidant, vitamin C neutralizes the free radicals formed by exposure to the sun, giving vitamin C protective and restorative qualities against sun damage.
Sunscreen remains the most effective way of reducing the effects of sun exposure. Still, studies have shown that vitamin C can enhance the protective abilities of sunscreens and help fight some of the visible pigmentation associated with sun damage.
Evidence from several studies displayed the protective properties of vitamin C against the sun’s harmful effects. These studies suggest that vitamin C and another antioxidant, vitamin E, heighten the protective abilities against the sun in sunscreen formulations. Dermatologists might recommend using a vitamin C serum containing vitamin E before sunscreen to harness vitamin C’s ability to neutralize or rebalance the free radicals in the skin.
Vitamin C also helps to replenish vitamin E levels in the skin. Vitamin E, an antioxidant like vitamin C, has been studied for its involvement in immune function, maintaining skin health, and its abilities in supporting the skin to protect itself from UV damage.
A 1999 article in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal discussed that new studies show that topical vitamin C is an excellent antioxidant for UVA and UVB protection, making it a useful adjunct to, but not replacement for, sunscreens.
This research was followed up in 2011 by researchers at the Linus Pauling Institute. Their research suggested that despite inconsistencies in vitamin C formulations, vitamin C is effective at protecting against damage induced by UV light. They also noted that it may help support the treatment of photodamage and/or skin wrinkling.
Collagen
As we age, collagen production decreases. From age 20, the amount of collagen produced reduces by 1% per year. As a molecule, L-ascorbic acid has been studied for its role in pathways that produce collagen in the body.
Collagen forms crosslinked fibers in the deeper layers of the skin which creates a net-like structure. It is thought that collagen may provide the skin with structure, firmness, or elasticity.
Vitamin C acts as a cofactor or a helper molecule in the body’s natural collagen forming process. Studies have looked at L-ascorbic acid’s ability to crosslink and stabilize collagen fibers. Vitamin C has also been investigated for its involvement in the production of a molecule called procollagen mRNA. This molecule signals the production of collagen and is responsible for signaling to the cell that collagen is needed.
While several studies support vitamin C’s involvement in the processes that produce collagen, research is ongoing as to whether skincare products containing vitamin C have significant effects in improving visible firmness and elasticity of the skin.
As the skin is the last organ to receive dietary vitamin C, topical L-ascorbic acid products such as powders and serums may be beneficial to improve the appearance of the skin. A study of vitamin C in skincare identified that topical L-ascorbic acid products increased L-ascorbic acid levels in the skin. The study also found that vitamin C products could improve the appearance of the skin at any age.
In 2015 in the Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology Journal published an article, whichfound thatapplying a 5% vitamin C solution for 6 months increased the skin’s thickness. Thicker skin is less likely to wrinkle than thin skin.
Hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation occurs on the surface of the skin for a multitude of internal and external reasons. These can range from pregnancy or melasma, hormonal imbalance, and sun damage to genetic predispositions, injury, or inflammation.
Melanin is the molecule responsible for giving skin color or pigment, and the uneven production of melanin results in hyperpigmentation areas on the surface. Vitamin C works to reduce the visibility of pigmentation through inhibition of the enzyme responsible for producing melanin in the skin.
By inhibiting the irregular production of melanin, vitamin C, at the right concentration and pH, can help minimize pigmentation’s appearance.
Dermatologists might recommend concentrated vitamin C products alongside retinol and laser for pigmentation. Using vitamin C to reduce the appearance of pigmentation can take time and depend on the product’s strength and frequency of use.
It is crucial to use sunscreen alongside vitamin C products to avoid further pigmentation from the sun.
Inflammation
Inflammation in the skin is common but some people experience it on a daily basis. Conditions such as acne, psoriasis, rosacea, and eczema may cause the skin to be chronically inflamed.
Vitamin C is thought to inhibit a molecule that activates pro-inflammatory cytokines. Cytokines are involved in immunity and help produce the inflammation reaction in the body to heal – think of healthy wound healing. In conditions where the skin is chronically inflamed, the cytokines react inappropriately, often working in overdrive. Currently, topical vitamin C products are being examined for how it is involved in inflammation, wound healing and post-inflammatory linked pigmentation.
Skin barrier integrity
The skin barrier includes the outermost layers of the skin and is essential for maintaining a healthy, clear complexion. It is responsible for protecting the skin’s deeper layers from damage, allergens, bacteria, and moisture loss. When issues with the skin barrier occur, it may suggest conditions such as atopic dermatitis or eczema.
Vitamin C has been used in combination with other skincare ingredients and dermatological therapies to treat conditions that affect the skin barrier. Vitamin C is thought to maintain the skin barrier by enhancing the ability of keratinocytes. Keratinocytes are a type of skin cell that produces keratin. Vitamin C helps to specialize the function of the keratinocyte.
Which Skincare Products Contain Vitamin C?
Vitamin C is found in a wide variety of beauty products. The most common is a serum, but it is also available in a powder from. Vitamin C can also be found in certain moisturizers, toners, face mists, oils, masks and cleansers. Many eye creams are also spiked with vitamin C to help prevent fine lines and protect against the sun, while also targeting dark circles. A vitamin C infused face mist can offer a quick pick me up during the day to boost the complexion. A few spritzes is all you need for a little extra hydration and glow.
Mists and powders aside, a serum is the most widely used way to get a dose of vitamin C, as serums tend to be lightweight and can be easily layered under products. The advantage of a serum over a moisturizer is that serums are absorbed quickly and can penetrate the skin deeper than a cream. A few drops is all you need; just tap the product gently onto the face after cleansing and before applying moisturizer. Most serums are formulated to leave the skin feeling smooth and velvety post-application, so it will feel good after cleansing.
How Should Vitamin C Be Used?
The way you get your vitamin C (from a powder, cream or serum) will affect how and when you should use it. It’s a good idea to incorporate vitamin C in your daily beauty routine. Since vitamin C can help protect skin from UV damage and environmental stressors, it makes sense to use it in the morning, so you’re protected all day. However, some vitamin C infused products are meant to be used specifically at night. Read the label carefully. If you’re using a product containing retinol, it can be a good idea to stick with vitamin C in the morning and apply the retinol at night to avoid irritating the skin.
Some people like to use a vitamin C serum twice a day, in the morning and at night. But if you’re also using a product containing glycolic or salicylic acid, it’s a good idea to wait before applying the vitamin C to avoid stinging and redness.
Who Should Use Vitamin C?
Vitamin C is suitable for all skin types and ages, whether you have younger or more mature skin, or skin is dry, oily or sensitive. This hero ingredient helps to build collagen in the skin which is beneficial to all ages either as prevention or treatment. No matter what age you are, it’s critical to protect yourself from the sun. Vitamin c helps to protect again damaging UV rays, so it’s beneficial for all ages.
What Percentage of Vitamin C Should I Look For?
Every product contains varying amounts of vitamin C.Read the label carefully. Most products tend to contain between 15-20% vitamin C, while some go up to 30%.
Generally studies have shown that vitamin C products that range between 8-20% are best. While it may be tempting to go for a higher concentration serum, doing so can actually irritate and potentially damage the skin.
If you are new to vitamin C, start with a lower concentration a few nights a week and work your way up.
The formulas with the highest concentration of vitamin C top out around 30% pure vitamin C. These super charged serums are formulated to be absorbed slowly over time. Some research suggests the optimal amount of vitamin C is about 20%.
Are There Any Downsides to Using Vitamin C?
Vitamin C isn’t very stable, which means it breaks down when exposed to light, heat and air, which can all render it less effective. Look for formulas in an air-tight package, a pump or a dark glass bottle. The addition of ferulic acid and vitamin E may help stabilize the formula.
Vitamin C may also cause mild stinging or redness when first applied. It usually goes away with continued use but any concerns should be discussed with a healthcare provider. Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, a water-soluble vitamin C, tends to be less irritating than L-asorbic acid so may be better for sensitive skin.
If you’re using a product containing retinol, you may want to alternate days when retinol and vitamin C are used to avoid irritating the skin. If you are also using products with salicylic acid and glycolic acid, you may want to avoid using vitamin C-spiked products on the same day.
There is also a phenomenon where vitamin C can, when applied topically smell like self tanner. It can also leave a very mild tint to the skin. This doesn’t happen with every vitamin C product but can for some skin types.
What Should You Consider When Choosing A Vitamin C Product?
Many serums blend vitamin C with other antioxidants and vitamins. The right formula for you will depend on your skin type and concern, such as dry skin or anti-aging.
If hydrating skin is a priority, look for a serum that also contains hyaluronic acid, a moisture magnet that can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, or glycerin, a humectant. Other serums contain additional fruit enzymes sourced from cloudberry, pomegranate or kakadu plums, to help exfoliate dead skin cells, which helps to leave skin looking and feeling softer. Some vitamin C serums contain ‘greens’ such as algae, spinach and kale for extra antioxidants.
Stability of your vitamin C product
L-ascorbic acid is a highly unstable molecule. It requires a water-based environment, a low pH, and antioxidants to increase its ability to deeply penetrate the skin.
Those conditions are important for creating a stable and active vitamin C product. It is essential to understand why L-ascorbic acid requires these conditions when choosing a vitamin C product in order to find one that is effective and long-lasting.
L-ascorbic acid has a reduced ability to penetrate the skin at its natural pH which is a result of its molecule structure. L-ascorbic acid is a charged molecule and is hydrophilic. These two characteristics mean that L-ascorbic acid will readily bind to water molecules, making it hard for the molecule to pass through the skin’s hydrophobic layers.
Reducing the pH of a product to less than 3.5 or less makes it more acidic, allowing for L-ascorbic acid to penetrate deeper and be stable for longer. However, reducing the pH of the product may lead to sensitization of the skin, as the natural pH of the skin is around. It is important to know the concentration of the product (more on that below).
To create a more stable product that lasts longer, some formulations use different forms of vitamin C. This includes magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or ascorbyl-6-palmitate, which are more stable at a neutral pH. However, a study conducted by Duke University Medical Center found that these two substitutes did not increase the natural vitamin C levels in the skin.
Some formulations include other antioxidants to help stabilize the L-ascorbic acid. Studies have suggested that incorporating ferulic acid and vitamin E can increase stability and improve the product’s ability to penetrate deeply into the skin.
A study published in theJournal for Investigative Dermatology found that ferulic acid stabilized the formulation and increased the protective capabilities of vitamin C to the sun’s effects.
L-ascorbic acid will only stay active in skincare products for a short period once opened. Even well-designed products will experience this, as exposure to the air will oxidize the L-ascorbic acid. To increase a product’s longevity, look for powder formulations, products in vial form, or small product sizes. Look for products formulated with antioxidants such as ferulic acid.
Concentration
Concentration is another critical element when considering which L-ascorbic acid products would best suit your needs. Some brands advertise a high level of vitamin C in their product, such as 100% L-ascorbic acid.
While it may seem appealing to have concentrated products, formulas with more than 20% L-ascorbic acid can irritate the skin. Most dermatological studies have found that a range between 8-20% produces the best results with limited irritation.
A study conducted by Duke University Medical Center found that the concentrations of L-ascorbic acid above 20% do not have increased skin benefits. The study determined that conversely, higher levels can negatively impact the skin’s condition. Sensitive skin types should use vitamin C products in the lower part of the range.
Synthetic or plant-based vitamin C
Occasionally brands won’t advertise the strength of the vitamin C content in the product but instead focus on the source. This lack of information regarding concentration tends to occur with formulations utilizing Kakadu plum, hibiscus, or other plant-based vitamin C sources.
The issue with plant-based sources of vitamin C is that they tend to be low in concentration and are generally unstable. The strength of L-ascorbic acid in Kakadu plum is about 2% which means it cannot affect the skin in any significant way.
The low concentration of L-ascorbic acid in plant-based sources and the instability of most natural sources is why most effective vitamin C products use a synthetic form of L-ascorbic acid in their formulations, including most clean beauty brands.
Vitamin C products
Many product types can deliver vitamin C to the skin, including gels, serums and powders. L-ascorbic acid is a water-soluble molecule that requires a low pH and the inclusion of stabilizers and antioxidants, which means that most L-ascorbic acid formulations will be in a water base or dried form. Some are formulated in an oil base.
L-ascorbic acid delivered in gel or serums is absorbed quickly without adding extra moisturizing products which makes them suitable for oily or acne-prone skin. They also work well with an established skincare routine, as they avoid disrupting a working regime. Powder forms of L-ascorbic acid prevent the need for many stabilizers. They reduce the risk of decreased effectiveness through exposure to the sun and air as the product becomes active only when mixed with water.
Other types of vitamin C
The type of vitamin C often varies between formulations. As a vitamin C source, L-ascorbic acid is the most well-researched source and the source that has shown the most benefits to the body. Other forms of synthetic vitamin C used in skincare are mineral ascorbates, calcium ascorbate, magnesium ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate or tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. The type of vitamin C and the type of product can have a significant effect on the efficacy of the product.
Studies have indicated that tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate might equal L-ascorbic acid in terms of effectiveness. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is an oil-soluble form of vitamin C that works alongside other products such as retinol. In a review conducted by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, evidence indicated that tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is more stable in solution, less irritating, and able to penetrate deeper into the skin, making it a promising vitamin C treatment.
Can You Use Vitamin C with Retinol?
Yes, you can but only if your skin and patience can handle it. If you want to use vitamin C and retinol together, start off slow. It’s best to apply vitamin C before your retinol product as vitamin C has a lower pH than retinol.
Let the vitamin C sink in first for 30 mins so that the vitamin C doesn’t interact with the pH of the retinol.
The other way to combine these two ingredients is to alternate their use, use vitamin C one night and retinol the other.
Is Vitamin C Safe During Preganancy?
Vitamin C- based products are considered to be safe during pregnancy. However, it is always best to check with your doctor before starting any new active product.
References:
Al-Niami, F & Chiang, N 2017. ‘Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications’, The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, vol. 10, is. 7, pp. 14-17.
Chen, L, Hu, J, Wang, S 2012. ‘The role of antioxidants in photoprotection: A critical review’, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, vol 67, is. 5, pp.1013-1024.
Murray, J, Burch, J, Streilein, R, Iannacchione, M, Hall, R & Pinnell, S 2008. ‘A topical antioxidant solution containing vitamins C and E stabilized by ferulic acid, provided protection for human skin against damage caused by ultraviolet radiation’ Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, vol. 59, is. 3, pp. 418-425.
Pinnell, S, Yang, H, Omar, M, Monteiro-Riviere, N, DeBuys, H, Walker, L, Wang, Y & Levine, M 2001. ‘Topical L-ascorbic Acid: Percutaneous Absorption Studies’, Dermatol Surg, vol.27, is. 2, pp.137-142.
Pullar, J, Carr, A & Vissers, M 2017. ‘The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health’ Nutrients, vol. 9, is. 8, pp. 866.
Telang, P 2013. ‘Vitamin C in dermatology’ Indian Dermatology Online Journal, Vol. 4, is. 2, pp. 143-146.
Yatskayer, M, Oresajo, C, Bhushan, P, Yano, S & Stephens, T 2011. ‘Clinical evaluation of an antioxidant gel cream containing vitamin c, ferulic acid and phloretin on photodamaged skin’, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, vol. 64, is. 2, pp. 24.
Wang, K, Jiang, H, Li, W, Qiang, M, Dong, T & Li, H 2018. ‘Role of Vitamin C in Skin Diseases’, Frontiers in Physiology, vol. 9, pp. 819.
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