Author: Elle M

What Causes Wrinkles?

Wrinkles are one of those things that tend to creep up on you. One day you look in the mirror and what you would have used to consider tiny laugh lines have morphed into full on crow’s feet. Fine lines and wrinkles tend to make their appearance in the mid-twenties. They’re most prominent on the face, back of the hands, neck and chest. While wrinkles are a natural part of the aging process, getting older isn’t the only reason we have them.

Wrinkles can be caused by a wide variety of factors, including sun exposure, diet and habits. Here’s a look at what causes wrinkles.

The Sun
Sun exposure is one of the biggest culprits when it comes to the formation of wrinkles. The sun’s ultraviolet (UV) light damages elastin, the fibers in the skin, as well as collagen, which is the skin’s support structure. As elastin and collagen break down, skin loses its ability to “bounce back.” It sags and stretches, and also bruises more easily, leading to lines and wrinkles. UV rays are also a primary cause of pigmentation, sun spots and the degradation of skin texture. By some estimates, up to 90% of the visible signs of aging may be caused by sun exposure.

Keep in mind that sun damage often appears much later than exposure, so if you spent your childhood baking in the sun, you will see the results in your 30s and 40s. Sun damage is cumulative, so even if you are popping out for 15 minutes to walk the dog, all the exposure adds up over time. That’s also why people often have more wrinkles on the left side of their face, as that is the side of the face getting the most sun when driving. The bottom line? Always wear sunscreen every day. Choose a moisturizer with a high SPF or use mineral makeup, which has physical sun blockers such as zinc oxide.

Smoking
Your health should be reason enough to quit smoking. Puffing on cigarettes not only takes a toll on your body but your face. Smoking accelerates the aging process as it restricts blood flow to the skin. Without oxygen, skin cells cannot regenerate. The chemicals in cigarettes also break down the skin’s fiber and elastin, which are responsible for keeping skin looking plump and full. The sheer act of inhaling a cigarette also creates fine lines around the mouth, leading to a puckered look. Smoking has also been linked to an increase in psoriasis, a scaly skin condition, and stains teeth. Cigarette smoking also depletes nutrients such as vitamin C, which help protect and repair skin damage. Need more reasons to quit?

Repetitive Facial Movements
We all have repetitive habits that we do unconsciously, from twirling our hair to pursing our lips or frowning in concentration. But repetitive facial movements, such as sucking on a straw, can also lead to the formation of wrinkles. Even chewing gum can have a negative effect. Here’s why. When you use a facial muscle, a groove forms beneath the surface of the skin. The skin loses its ability to bounce back as we age, and these grooves become permanent, leading to the formation of wrinkles. Although habits are hard to break, try to keep the face as relaxed as possible. If you’re a frequent gum chewer, switch to breath mints instead and ditch the straws.

Sugar
If you have a sweet tooth, it can be hard to break a sugar habit. While it’s not great for the waistline or your teeth, sugar also isn’t doing your face any favors. Sugar causes glycation, and glycation can cause skin to age.

When sugar or refined carbohydrates such as white rice and bread are eaten, the level of sugar in the body goes up and stays that way. Sugar molecules bond to proteins such as collagen in the skin – a process known as glycation. This creates a chemical reaction causing the skin to become more stiff, leading to wrinkles, lines and discoloration. When collagen and elastin are damaged and can’t do their job of supporting the skin, the skin starts to sag. Glycation also prevents cells from functioning properly, and create free radicals, which can further damage skin cells. It also makes the skin more susceptible to environmental stressors such as UV light, pollution and cigarette smoke. Sugar is also dehydrating and can increases oil production. It also affects water binding so as a result, skin doesn’t look plump and healthy. Need more reason to bypass the dessert table? Sugar is thought to weaken the immune system, and a suppressed immune system cannot fight off bacteria.

Squinting
Nobody wants to admit they’re having a hard time reading or seeing the television, but squinting is not only bad for your eyes, but your wrinkles as well. Constantly squinting can lead to wrinkles and loss of skin elasticity, as the eye muscles get trained to stay in a certain position. Make an appointment with an eye doctor to get a pair of reading glasses or upgrade your prescription. If you find yourself squinting in the sun, make sure to always carry a pair of sunglasses in your handbag or in your car. When it comes to sunglasses, bigger is better for sun protection.

If you do have fine lines, try a serum such as Formulyst Anti-Wrinkle Peptide Serum. It’s loaded with wrinkle fighting peptides, which are protein fragments that are the critical building blocks of skin. This serum contains six rejuvenating peptides and also delivers a dose of hydration for smoother, soft skin.

Scrubbing Too Much
Facial skin is delicate, and although we all want squeaky clean skin, don’t overdo it. It’s critical to always wash your face at night to whisk away dirt, makeup and sweat but choose the right facial wash. Never use deodorant soap on the face, which can dry out the skin and make it look dull and creased. Choose the right type of cleanser for your skin type, whether it is dry, oily or combination. Facial cleansers may also have to be switched due to seasonal changes. Resist the urge to over exfoliate as well, because harsh scrubbing can damage the skin. Switch from using a chunky scrub to one with alpha hydroxyl acids to gently slough off dead skin cells.

Pollution
Many of us live in cities where pollution is a way of life – when your window sills look permanently dirty, and the inside of your nose is often black, you know you live in a polluted place. The environment can have an impact on the formation of fine lines and wrinkles too. Pollution, whether it’s in the form of smog, chemical byproducts, particles, or smoke, can age skin prematurely. Pollutants can cause free radicals to damage the collagen and elastin of the skin. When these building blocks break down, the signs of aging can occur. Pollution has also been linked to fine lines, crepey skin, and dark spots.

Pollution damage may also be linked to acne and inflammation, as well as skin conditions such as eczema and hives. Products with antioxidants and SPF can help prevent this.

Lack of Sleep
There’s a reason it’s called beauty sleep. Getting enough sleep is vital for the appearance of the skin and preventing wrinkles. While we sleep and get our zzzs, the skin heals and regenerates itself, and also flushes out toxins. At night the body produces more collagen and boosts blood flow to the face, enabling you to wake up with a healthy glow. Try to get eight hours a night and stick to a bedtime winding down ritual to help you get to sleep.

Stress
Stress is a part of life, whether that is due to work, family issues or simply trying to do it all. But stress can take its toll not only on your mental health but physical health as well. Stress increases the level of cortisol, which leads to higher blood pressure, increased fat storage and a spike in blood sugar. A spike in blood sugar damages the collagen and elastin fibers which provide structure and fullness to the skin. Try to find ways to destress, whether that is outsourcing certain tasks or hitting the gym, or taking breaks from the office to walk a lap or two around the block.

Dehydration
Dry skin can be itchy and scaly. It’s not only uncomfortable but can make skin more susceptible to wrinkles. Always moisturize the skin twice a day, in the morning and at night. During the winter consider adding a few drops of nourishing face oil to your daily moisturizer for even more hydration. Or choose a rich moisturizer.

How To Prevent Wrinkles

Wrinkles are a fact of life. They are a natural part of the aging process, and laugh lines around the eyes and mouth are signs of a life well-lived – with plenty of laughs along the way. But not all lines are caused by laughing.

Many wrinkles are caused from the loss of collagen and elastin, the natural support structures of the skin, which weaken as we age. After the age of 20, we produce 1% less collagen a year, which leads to thinner and more fragile skin. But wrinkles can also be caused by a combination of environmental factors such as diet, sun and smoking as well as habits you may not realize are causing creases- such as sleeping on one side of the face.

Here’s a look at what you can do to prevent wrinkles.

Wear Sunscreen Every Day

One of the leading causes of wrinkles is UV rays from the sun, which damage collagen and lead to the formation of lines and creases in the skin, as well as dark spots. Sunscreen should be worn every single day, whether the sun is out or not. One of the most foolproof ways to remember to wear SPF is to use a daytime moisturizer with a high SPF. Try a tinted moisturizer if you don’t want to look chalky, or brush on mineral makeup which contains the physical sun blockers zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
We recommend: Neutrogena’s Healthy Defense moisturizer contains SPF 50 and is ideal for sensitive skin. Or just brush on a layer of Colorescience, a non-chemical sunscreen that contains titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. The powder comes in multiple shades and is also TSA friendly.

Get Your Beauty Sleep

Beauty sleep” is an apt term, as clocking a solid eight hours is one of the best things you can do for your face (and your mind). A lack of sleep can aggravate skin conditions ranging from acne, eczema and psoriasis. Getting eight or more hours of sleep a night is crucial for good skin as the body repairs and recovers at night. While you sleep, the body produces more collagen and increases blood flow to the face- so give yourself enough time for your body to work its magic and wake up looking healthy and rested.
We recommend: The best way to ensure your nightly beauty sleep is to try and create a bedtime routine, such as turning off all electronics at the same time, and stick to it. A few drops of lavender oil help to calm and soothe when you’re feeling too wired to sleep.

But Not All Sleep Is the Same

You know you’re supposed to get at least eight hours a night of sleep, but not all sleep is the same. How you sleep (meaning the position of your face on the pillow) can also be a factor in the prevention of wrinkles. Sleeping with the side of your faced crushed against the pillow can lead to deep lines on that side. Here’s why. Repeated pressure in one targeted area can break down collagen, resulting in visible lines. Try to sleep on your back or switch to a smooth satin or silk pillow to reduce creasing.
We recommend: Invest in a special pillow to keep you sleeping on your back, or buy a silk pillow case so your face doesn’t stick to the pillow.

Embrace Serums
Choosing the right serum is one of the best defenses against the formation of wrinkles. Why a serum? They’re lightweight, highly concentrated and are readily absorbed into the skin. For maximum wrinkle fighting, choose a serum specifically formulated to tackle the signs of aging. Looks for ingredients such as peptides and antioxidants.
We recommend: Formulyst’s Anti-Wrinkle Peptide Serum as it contains an essential wrinkle busting workhorse- peptides. Peptides are protein fragments that are the critical building blocks of skin. This serum contains six rejuvenating peptides and also delivers a dose of hydration for smoother, supple looking skin.

Quit Smoking
We shouldn’t have to say this, but smoking is one of the worst things you can do to your health, and your complexion. Smoking accelerates the normal aging process of the skin, and leaves skin looking dull and yellow. Nicotine in cigarettes restricts blood flow, which means skin doesn’t get as much oxygen and nutrients, causing it to wrinkle faster.
We recommend: Stop smoking today.

Avoid Repetitive Facial Motions
This belongs in the category of “easier said than done,” but any repetitive facial moment can cause wrinkles. If you always drink from a straw, squint in the sun, or frown when concentrating, the constant motion can lead to the formation of fine lines. Here’s why. When you use a facial muscle, a groove forms beneath the surface of the skin. The skin loses its ability to bounce back as we age, and these grooves become permanent, leading to the formation of wrinkles.
We recommend: Avoid squinting by always wearing sunglasses outdoors, and skip the straw. Try to relax the face as much as possible.

Use a Retinol
When it comes to tackling fine lines and wrinkles, it’s hard to beat retinols. This vitamin A derivative does a little bit of everything, from boosting cell turnover to tackling dark spots and helping to reduce the appearance of pores. Retinols also help exfoliate dead skin cells, which means skin has a smoother, more even texture. Retinols should be applied at night, and start slowly to prevent excess dryness and irritation.

Get Your Eight A Day
We’re not talking about eight hours of sleep a day but eight glasses of water a day. Water is essential for the proper functioning of the skin, which is the largest organ in the body. Water also helps with digestion and circulation, and helps flush out toxins and waste products from the body. Rehydrating is important especially after a workout. When you’re dehydrated, skin can look dry and scaly, and exacerbate the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Drink up to help maintain optimum skin moisture and keep skin smooth and supple.
We recommend:Buy a refillable water bottle and bring it to work. Add slice of citrus fruit to flavor the water naturally.

Microneedling
Think of microneedling as a controlled injury with a positive outcome. It’s a procedure where a little wheel covered in hundreds of tiny needles punctures the skin in order to kick start the healing process. The skin heals itself by creating collagen and elastin, which give skin a firm, smooth look. It can also help treat acne scars, fade fine lines, and even out skin tone. Microneedling can be performed by a dermatologist or aesthetician, although you can also do this at home by purchasing your own dermarollers- although you won’t be able to go as deep as a pro.
We recommend: One of the fanciest dermarollers on the market is a 14 karate gold one from Environ, covered in 260 ultra-fine needles. A more budget friendly option is the Nurse Jamie Beauty Stamp

Don’t Over Do It
The skin on your face is delicate, and should be treated accordingly. While it is essential to wash your face at night to get rid of any dirt, sweat and impurities, don’t overdo it. Never use soap on your face as it is too drying. Over-washing the face can lead to dryness, which makes the skin look dull and more creased. Choose the right type of cleanser for your skin type, whether it is dry, oily or combination. Facial cleansers may also have to be switched due to seasonal changes.

All About Antioxidants
You are what you eat, and too much sugar and alcohol can accelerate the aging process, contributing to fine lines and wrinkles. Try to eat as many whole foods as possible, and full your plate with an assortment of antioxidant rich vegetables and fruits. Foods that are rich in vitamins C, E, and A can help reduce and prevent the signs of aging. Salmon and mackerel are packed with Omega-3’s, which help nourish the skin and keep it supple. Antioxidants are not only good for the body but do wonders for the face when applied topically.

Facial Massage
Massaging the face not only feels relaxing, but helps to stimulate blood flow to the area, leaving you with a healthy glow. Be careful not to tug or pull on the skin, so use a rich cream or facial oil. Treat yourself to a facial, which also help declog pores and even out skin tone, or do it at home.

Derived from Vitamin A, retinols have been used safely since the 1970’s.

But what exactly is retinol, how does it work, and should you incorporate it into your skincare regimen?

What is Retinol?

Retinol is derived from vitamin A.

Once it is absorbed into the skin, retinol it is converted into the active form called retinoic acid.

Your skin cells contain receptors for retinoic acid, which supports faster skin cell turnover, reduction in appearance of hyperpigmentation and support of collagen production, to be achieved.

Vitamin A or retinoic acid is used to improve the appearance of the skin. Studies have suggested that vitamin A may help reduce visible fine lines, pigmentation, blemishes, and may help to improve skin cell turnover. This is why retinoid products, like retinol, are so widely used by both women and men.

Think of retinols as multi-taskers and one of the hardest working products in your beauty arsenal.

What Does Retinol Do? What Are The Benefits?

Retinols exfoliate skin, purging it of old skin cells and help create new ones, which results in new, fresh skin with a smooth texture.

They also help to reduce the look pores and increase cell turnover inside the pore, making it less likely to clog with dirt and oil.

Retinols work by thinning the top layer of the skin, while thickening the smoother second layer (the epidermis), which makes skin look dewy and firm.

But perhaps retinol’s biggest claim to fame is that it supports boost collagen production. When it comes to tackling the signs of anti-ageing, collagen is key as it’s what gives skin elasticity and firmness. Think of it as a support structure for the skin, and keep in mind that collagen creation starts to diminish in the 30’s and gets worse every year

Here are the primary benefits of retinol: 

Collagen

Retinol improves the appearance of your skin through several mechanisms. One is through the inhibition of collagenase, which is an enzyme that breaks down collagen. By preventing collagen degradation, the skin may appear more firm, and lines/wrinkles may be visibly diminished. As we age our ability to produce collagen decreases. Collagen is one of the molecules that is responsible for giving the skin firmness and structure.

Retinoids , including retinol work on the upper papillary dermis where collagen content can be increased by inhibition of collagen degradation. Topical retinoic acid or tretinoin, the strongest of the retinoids has been found to increase Type I collagen by 80% in photoaged skin. Thickening of the skin was also observed which helps to minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Skin cell turnover

Retinol has also been studied for its ability to initiate the increase of epidermal proliferation, which means it may help to support skin growth. The skin normally takes about 28 days from the first formation of a cell until that cell naturally sheds off. This process slows down as we age, which can lead to dry, dull skin as well as clogged pores – which can all exacerbate the look of fine lines. Retinol has been suggested to speed up this process to 14 to 16 days. This effect has been linked with a thicker skin and improvement in the appearance of fullness in the skin.

Exfoliation

Additionally, retinoids ‘exfoliate’ the skin by supporting the natural shedding of the skin. The uppermost layers of the skin are typically composed of 14 layers of densely packed dead skin cells. These dead skin cells form the protective barrier that prevents moisture loss, bacteria overgrowth, and damage. However, in some people, shedding this layer may help to improve pigmentation and reduce the frequency of blemishes. The use of topical retinol helps to slough off some of these surface layers.

The combination of rapid regeneration of cells may help to improve the appearance of aging skin and reduce the appearance of dark spots and blemishes. Over time these actions may improve the appearance of acne, soften the skin, lift dark spots and reduce the visibility of wrinkles.

Antioxidant

Lastly, retinol functions as an antioxidant to limit oxidative damage caused by free radicals.

Antioxidants help to prevent free radical damage. Free radicals are produced by a natural process in the body called oxidative stress, however, environmental factors such as UV rays, smoking, diet, and pollution can increase the number of free radicals in the body.

This increase can be detrimental, as free radicals have been linked with damage to the body’s cells and studies suggest that they may be linked to aging. The ability of retinol to work as an antioxidant may provide the skin with a little extra protection.

Hyperpigmentation

Retinoids are often used to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation. Retinol works on hyperpigmentation in a couple of ways. The first is that it may speed up the skin’s natural shedding process, removing the pigmented skin from the surface.

Retinol may also may work to influence the molecules that are responsible for pigment in the skin, melanocytes, allowing for regular, even arrangement of pigment in the skin.

The main thing to remember when using any retinoid product is that you need to use it in conjunction with sunscreen. This is particularly important when using retinoids for hyperpigmentation as the sun will contribute to the appearance of hyperpigmentation.

Aging

Retinoids are widely used to reduce the signs of aging on the skin. While the aging processes of the skin are highly complex and depend on genetic and environmental factors, retinol and its retinoid counterparts have been shown to help reduce fine lines and wrinkles as well as improve skin texture and laxity.

Many studies have been conducted on retinol specifically for its benefits to aging skin. Most of these studies demonstrate a significant reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Some studies have also indicated that retinol may reduce skin fragility and may help to support wound healing in aging skin.

How Does Retinol Work?

Retinol is a 20 carbon molecule that consists of a cyclohexenyl ring, a side chain with four double bonds and an alcohol end group. Don’t worry if you didnt get that, what is important to know to understand how retinol works is that the alcohol group is oxidated to form aldehyde, which can be further oxidized to form retinoic acid. It is the retinoic acid, a metabolite or byproduct of vitamin A or retinol that is used by the body.

Vitamin A cannot be produced by the body so it is a vitamin we absorb from our diet. Retinol and retinoids are required for several processes in the body including embryogenesis, reproduction, vision, growth, inflammation and cell regulation. So, retinol is an important molecule in the body and is involved in many other processes than just the skin.

What is the Difference Between a Retinol and Retinoid?

Retinols and retinoids all come from vitamin A – or they are produced synthetically. They have the same function but their main difference is their concentration. Retinoic acid is the strongest version and is available by prescription.  It is also known as tretinoin or Retin-A. “Retinoids” is an umbrella term that includes both over the counter and prescription versions of vitamin A, while “retinol” refers only to the over-the-counter version. 

Some products contain pro-retinols which are listed as retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinyl linoleate on the packaging. These are more gentle than retinol and can take longer to see results with them. However, one benefit of an over the counter retinol is that it may not cause as much irritation as a prescription strength version.

What If I’m Using Retinol For The First Time

If you have never used a retinol before, we recommend start slowly to prevent irritation and peeling.

Apply a small amount every third night and gradually build up to using it every night.

While you may see improvements in as little as a few days, it takes months to see more visible changes.

Make sure to incorporate a good moisturizer into your skincare regimen when using a retinol to offset any dryness. Take extra precaution when in the sun and be sure to apply a SPF daily — which everyone should do regardless of retinol use.

Can You Use Retinol When Pregnant?

The American Academy of Dermatology advises that pregnant and breast-feeding women should avoid using retinols. It is always best to discuss this with your doctor or specialist to determine if skincare choices may suit your situation or medical history.

Who Can Benefit from Using Retinols?

If well tolerated, retinol can be beneficial for anyone who is lookin to improve the appearance of their skin. Many people start using retinols in their mid-twenties but it’s never too late to start using them.

In general the products are suitable for all skin types but as it can cause irritation, anyone with dry, damaged or sensitive skin should proceed slowly.

If you are experiencing sensitivity it may be best to reduce the frequency of use, or even the time you have it on your skin. For example you can apply your retinol product for 10 mins then wash it off.

Listen to your skin, if it is irritated or sensitive step it back or discontinue use and speak with your doctor or dermatologist.

What is Encapsulated Retinol?

You may have seen some skincare products with “encapsulated retinol” as an ingredient. Encapsulated retinol works just like retinol but is delivered to the skin in a different way.

Encapsulated retinol is protected at a microscopic level so the potent ingredients are delivered slowly – which could help minimize irritation.

We recommend products with encapsulated retinol.

Are There Any Side Effects With Retinol?

Some people using retinols develop flaky, red and irritated skin so incorporating a good moisturizer to help soothe the skin is a must.

For some retinol users, the face can look worse before it starts getting better, in a process that is called “retinization.” This resolved for most people over time. If your skin looks particularly dry and flaky, resist the urge to exfoliate those dry spots away.

Some retinol users adopt a rotation method where they switch between a ‘work’ night, meaning they use a retinol on certain days, and take a break with a ‘nourish’ night where the focus is on soothing the skin with extra hydration through a mask or an oil based serum.

Using retinols can also make the skin more sensitive to the sun, so it is critical to wear a sunscreen with a high SPF every single day.

When using a retinol pay attention to your facial cleanser and make sure it isn’t stripping your skin. You may want to switch to a creamy or milk based cleanser that is extra gentle on the skin. Anyone with skin issues such as rosacea, eczema, psoriasis or sensitive skin may find that retinol is too much for their face; check with a health professional first.

Skip ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide and alpha hydroxy acids when using retinols as they can be too senstizing or drying to the skin when used in combination with retinol.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, a group responsible for the independent review of cosmetic and skincare ingredients has reviewed retinol. The Expert Panel evaluated available data and determined that is safe for use in its current indications and concentrations.

What Concentration Of Retinol Should I Use?

Over the counter retinol products come in a variety of concentrations, ranging from 0.01% up to 1%. What exactly does this mean? It comes down to the strength of the product, which is important as retinol can be irritating to the skin.

If you’ve never used retinol before, start with a low concentration and see how the skin tolerates it before moving up to a moderate strength, which tends to be from 0.04% to 0.1%. The highest percentage is between 0.5% and 1% retinol.

But bigger isn’t always better when it comes to retinol concentration. The skin will still gain benefits from a lower strength product, as consistency of use is key. But if your skin has plenty of sun damage, deep wrinkles and sun spots, you will want to build up to a stronger concentration.

Can You Use Vitamin C with Retinol?

Yes, you can but only if your skin and patience can handle it. If you want to use vitamin C and retinol together, start off slow. Its best to apply vitamin C before your retinol product as vitamin C has a lower pH than retinol. Let the vitamin C sink in first for 30 mins so that the vitamin C doesn’t interact with the pH of the retinol. The other way to combine these two ingredients is to alternate their use, use vitamin C one night and retinol the other.

However, we recommend using vitamin C during the day and retinol at night.

Can You Use Hyaluronic Acid With Retinol?

Yes. Retinol and hyaluronic acid can be used together and can be quite complementary. Hyaluronic acid helps to hydrate the skin and deliver water to the skin. As long as you use a moisturizer over the hyaluronic acid to trap in the moisture than they are fine to be used together.

Can You Use Acids With Retinol?

Acids such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, BHAs, or AHAs are often too irritatting to use alongside retinol. However, depending on the frequency and strength of both products they can be used together. However, proceed with caution and discontinue use if your skin become sensitive or irritated. You can always try the alternating trick if that helps as well.

When using any skincare p

References: Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2019;36(4):392-397. Shao Y, He T, Fisher GJ, Voorhees JJ, Quan T. Molecular basis of retinol anti-ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2017;39(1):56-65. Buchanan PJ, Gilman RH. Retinoids: Literature Review and Suggested Algorithm for Use Prior to Facial Resurfacing Procedures. J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2016;9(3):139-144. Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327-348.

An apple a day may keep the doctor away, and the same idea applies to Vitamin C.

As an adult you already know that vitamin C is good for your body. Found in some vegetables as well as citrus fruits such as grapefruits and oranges, many people swear by it during cold and flu season. 

While vitamin C is good for your body, it also has plenty of benefits when applied topically to the face.

In fact, it is one of the most widely recommended ingredients by dermatologists.

Here’s a closer look at what vitamin C is, and what it can do for your skin.

What is Vitamin C?

Vitamin C is also known as ascorbic acid. It is found in vegetables and citrus fruits such as limes, oranges and grapefruits, red and green peppers, tomatoes, broccoli, and certain greens such as kale and snow peas.

According to the National Institute of Health, vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is a water soluble nutrient. Bodies need it to form muscle and collagen, which assists in wound healing and keeping skin looking plump and a firm. 

Vitamin C is also considered to be an antioxidant in the body and according to the Mayo Clinic, may help protect against damaging free radicals. Vitamin C is found in citrus fruit as well as broccoli, peppers, baked potatoes, and tomatoes.  

Vitamin C is found naturally in the skin. In a 2017 article, the authors note that ‘normal skin contains high concentrations of vitamin C, which supports important and well-known functions, stimulating collagen synthesis and assisting in antioxidant protection against UV-induced photodamage.’

What Is Topical Vitamin C?

The vitamin C found in skincare products is usually listed as ascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphatem ascorbyl palmitate and retinyl ascorbate.  The most commonly used is L-ascorbic acid, and it is also the most researched.

According to the University of Wisconsin-Madison, L-ascorbic acid is the purest and most potent form of vitamin C, and the only version of it that can fully be absorbed by the skin. ‘Once L-ascorbic acid is applied to the skin it is immediately absorbed, cannot be washed off, and will remain in the skin for up to 72 hours.’

Vitamin C is found in a wide variety of beauty products.

The most common is a serum, but it is also available in a powder from.

Vitamin C can also be found in certain moisturizers, toners, face mists, oils, masks and cleansers.

Many eye creams are also formulated with vitamin C to help prevent fine lines and protect against the sun, while also targeting dark circles.

We recommend using topical vitamin c in a serum form.

What Are The Benefits of Vitamin C?

Vitamin C offers a wide range of benefits to the skin. It’s often called a “hero” or “superpower” ingredient because of all that it can do. Many skincare experts would argue that if you had to pare down a beauty routine to the bare essentials, it would include a retinol as well as a vitamin C. 

Here’s why.

Vitamin C  helps visibly improve everything from skin texture to tone, and targets inflammation as well as hyper pigmentation. The topical application of vitamin C can work to visibly smooth and firm skin, as it helps support collagen production, which is the critical for giving skin firmness and strength.

This miracle worker can also help fend off the signs of aging by fighting free radicals as well as reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

It’s also an important part of a healthy and safe skin routine, as it provides enhanced protection against UV exposure – but remember that it shouldn’t take the place of sunscreen. Think of it as an enhancement. A dose of vitamin C can help skin look brighter and tighter, and help achieve that healthy, radiant glow. Hydration is also boosted thanks to vitamin C, which helps to enhance the protective barrier function of the skin. This means skin retains moisture for longer.

Vitamin C also helps visibly fade dark marks, sun spots and smooth over acne scars. 

Vitamin C basically acts as a gentle, natural bleaching agent which can help fade hyperpigmentation as well as dark under-eye circles.  

This powerhouse ingredient that can help improve the appearance of the skin in multiple ways, making it an ideal product to bring into any skincare regime. Studies discussed in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology have outlined the benefits of topical vitamin C treatments. 

Their research found evidence that topical vitamin C may help diminish the visibility of pigmentation, is involved in the collagen production process, may be involved in inflammation, reduce the sun’s effects on the skin, and maintain skin barrier integrity.

Exfoliator

Vitamin C is best known for helping to make the skin look brighter.  Since vitamin C is an acid, it helps whisk away dead skin cells, which leaves the face looking smoother and brighter, and feeling softer. It may also inhibit melanin production, which results in skin looking brighter. Regular use may also help to minimize the appearance of fine lines due to cell turnover.

Brightening

Vitamin C helps brighten skin and helps fade age spots andsun spots . Vitamin C basically acts as a gentle, natural brightening agent which can help fade hyperpigmentation as well as dark under-eye circles.

Antioxidant

Environmental factors such as radiation from the sun, UVA and UVB, pollution, smoking, and diet can put the skin in a state of oxidative stress. Oxidative stress produces an imbalance in the levels of molecules called free radicals. This imbalance may lead to damage of cells and tissues within the body. 

Free radicals, also called reactive oxygen species or ROS, are a natural by-product of the body’s chemical processes. Think of them as your body’s waste. Free radicals can accumulate and create an imbalance. 

This imbalance has been studied for its links with many diseases and its role in the aging process. As an antioxidant, vitamin C is thought to reduce the effects of oxidative stress by neutralizing the free radical molecules and rebalancing their levels in the body. 

Vitamin C and sun damage

When skin is exposed to UV light, it can produce free radicals. Free radicals are involved in a cascade of events that have been suggested to reduce the amount of collagen the body produces, increase cellular damage, and may cause harm to the DNA within the cell. 

The effects of free radicals on the skin result in the appearance of deep wrinkles, pigmentation, and loss of elasticity. These changes also tend to be associated with the natural decrease in collagen production and sun damage as we age. 

As an antioxidant, vitamin C neutralizes the free radicals formed by exposure to the sun, giving vitamin C protective and restorative qualities against sun damage.

 Sunscreen remains the most effective way of reducing the effects of sun exposure. Still, studies have shown that vitamin C can enhance the protective abilities of sunscreens and help fight some of the visible pigmentation associated with sun damage.

Evidence from several studies displayed the protective properties of vitamin C against the sun’s harmful effects.  These studies suggest that vitamin C and another antioxidant, vitamin E, heighten the protective abilities against the sun in sunscreen formulations. Dermatologists might recommend using a vitamin C serum containing vitamin E before sunscreen to harness vitamin C’s ability to neutralize or rebalance the free radicals in the skin.

Vitamin C also helps to replenish vitamin E levels in the skin. Vitamin E, an antioxidant like vitamin C, has been studied for its involvement in immune function, maintaining skin health, and its abilities in supporting the skin to protect itself from UV damage. 

A 1999 article in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal discussed that new studies show that topical vitamin C is an excellent antioxidant for UVA and UVB protection, making it a useful adjunct to, but not replacement for, sunscreens. 

This research was followed up in 2011 by researchers at the Linus Pauling Institute. Their research suggested that despite inconsistencies in vitamin C formulations, vitamin C is effective at protecting against damage induced by UV light. They also noted that it may help support the treatment of photodamage and/or skin wrinkling. 

Collagen 

As we age, collagen production decreases. From age 20, the amount of collagen produced reduces by 1% per year. As a molecule, L-ascorbic acid has been studied for its role in pathways that produce collagen in the body. 

Collagen forms crosslinked fibers in the deeper layers of the skin which creates a net-like structure. It is thought that collagen may provide the skin with structure,  firmness, or elasticity.

Vitamin C acts as a cofactor or a helper molecule in the body’s natural collagen forming process. Studies have looked at L-ascorbic acid’s ability to crosslink and stabilize collagen fibers. Vitamin C has also been investigated for its involvement in the production of a molecule called procollagen mRNA. This molecule signals the production of collagen and is responsible for signaling to the cell that collagen is needed.

While several studies support vitamin C’s involvement in the processes that produce collagen, research is ongoing as to whether skincare products containing vitamin C have significant effects in improving visible firmness and elasticity of the skin.  

As the skin is the last organ to receive dietary vitamin C, topical L-ascorbic acid products such as powders and serums may be beneficial to improve the appearance of the skin. A study of vitamin C in skincare identified that topical L-ascorbic acid products increased L-ascorbic acid levels in the skin. The study also found that vitamin C products could improve the appearance of the skin at any age.  

In 2015 in the Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology Journal published an article, whichfound thatapplying a 5% vitamin C solution for 6 months increased the skin’s thickness. Thicker skin is less likely to wrinkle than thin skin. 

Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation occurs on the surface of the skin for a multitude of internal and external reasons. These can range from pregnancy or melasma, hormonal imbalance, and sun damage to genetic predispositions, injury, or inflammation.

Melanin is the molecule responsible for giving skin color or pigment, and the uneven production of melanin results in hyperpigmentation areas on the surface. Vitamin C works to reduce the visibility of pigmentation through inhibition of the enzyme responsible for producing melanin in the skin. 

By inhibiting the irregular production of melanin, vitamin C, at the right concentration and pH, can help minimize pigmentation’s appearance.  

Dermatologists might recommend concentrated vitamin C products alongside retinol and laser for pigmentation. Using vitamin C to reduce the appearance of pigmentation can take time and depend on the product’s strength and frequency of use.

It is crucial to use sunscreen alongside vitamin C products to avoid further pigmentation from the sun.  

Inflammation

Inflammation in the skin is common but some people experience it on a daily basis. Conditions such as acne, psoriasis, rosacea, and eczema may cause the skin to be chronically inflamed. 

Vitamin C is thought to inhibit a molecule that activates pro-inflammatory cytokines. Cytokines are involved in immunity and help produce the inflammation reaction in the body to heal – think of healthy wound healing. In conditions where the skin is chronically inflamed, the cytokines react inappropriately, often working in overdrive. Currently, topical vitamin C products are being examined for how it is involved in inflammation, wound healing and post-inflammatory linked pigmentation. 

Skin barrier integrity

The skin barrier includes the outermost layers of the skin and is essential for maintaining a healthy, clear complexion. It is responsible for protecting the skin’s deeper layers from damage, allergens, bacteria, and moisture loss. When issues with the skin barrier occur, it may suggest conditions such as atopic dermatitis or eczema. 

Vitamin C has been used in combination with other skincare ingredients and dermatological therapies to treat conditions that affect the skin barrier. Vitamin C is thought to maintain the skin barrier by enhancing the ability of keratinocytes. Keratinocytes are a type of skin cell that produces keratin. Vitamin C helps to specialize the function of the keratinocyte. 

Which Skincare Products Contain Vitamin C?

Vitamin C is found in a wide variety of beauty products. The most common is a serum, but it is also available in a powder from. Vitamin C can also be found in certain moisturizers, toners, face mists, oils, masks and cleansers. Many eye creams are also spiked with vitamin C to help prevent fine lines and protect against the sun, while also targeting dark circles. A vitamin C infused face mist can offer a quick pick me up during the day to boost the complexion. A few spritzes is all you need for a little extra hydration and glow.

Mists and powders aside, a serum is the most widely used way to get a dose of  vitamin C, as serums tend to be lightweight and can be easily layered under products. The advantage of a serum over a moisturizer is that serums are absorbed quickly and can penetrate the skin deeper than a cream. A few drops is all you need; just tap the product gently onto the face after cleansing and before applying moisturizer. Most serums are formulated to leave the skin feeling smooth and velvety post-application, so it will feel good after cleansing.

How Should Vitamin C Be Used?

The way you get your vitamin C (from a powder, cream or serum) will affect how and when you should use it. It’s a good idea to incorporate vitamin C in your daily beauty routine.  Since vitamin C can help protect skin from UV damage and environmental stressors, it makes sense to use it in the morning, so you’re protected all day. However, some vitamin C infused products are meant to be used specifically at night. Read the label carefully. If you’re using a product containing retinol, it can be a good idea to stick with vitamin C in the morning and apply the retinol at night to avoid irritating the skin.

Some people like to use a vitamin C serum twice a day, in the morning and at night. But if you’re also using a product containing glycolic or salicylic acid, it’s a good idea to wait before applying the vitamin C to avoid stinging and redness.

Who Should Use Vitamin C?

Vitamin C is suitable for all skin types and ages, whether you have younger or more mature skin, or skin is dry, oily or sensitive. This hero ingredient helps to build collagen in the skin which is beneficial to all ages either as prevention or treatment. No matter what age you are, it’s critical to protect yourself from the sun. Vitamin c helps to protect again damaging UV rays, so it’s beneficial for all ages.

What Percentage of Vitamin C Should I Look For?

Every product contains varying amounts of vitamin C.Read the label carefully. Most products tend to contain between 15-20% vitamin C, while some go up to 30%.

Generally studies have shown that vitamin C products that range between 8-20% are best. While it may be tempting to go for a higher concentration serum, doing so can actually irritate and potentially damage the skin. 

If you are new to vitamin C, start with a lower concentration a few nights a week and work your way up.

The formulas with the highest concentration of vitamin C top out around 30% pure vitamin C. These super charged serums are formulated to be absorbed slowly over time. Some research suggests the optimal amount of vitamin C is about 20%.

Are There Any Downsides to Using Vitamin C?

Vitamin C isn’t very stable, which means it breaks down when exposed to light, heat and air, which can all render it less effective. Look for formulas in an air-tight package, a pump or a dark glass bottle. The addition of ferulic acid and vitamin E may help stabilize the formula. 

Vitamin C may also cause mild stinging or redness when first applied. It usually goes away with continued use but any concerns should be discussed with a healthcare provider. Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, a water-soluble vitamin C, tends to be less irritating than L-asorbic acid so may be better for sensitive skin.

 If you’re using a product containing retinol, you may want to alternate days when retinol and vitamin C are used to avoid irritating the skin. If you are also using products with salicylic acid and glycolic acid, you may want to avoid using vitamin C-spiked products on the same day.

There is also a phenomenon where vitamin C can, when applied topically smell like self tanner. It can also leave a very mild tint to the skin. This doesn’t happen with every vitamin C product but can for some skin types. 

What Should You Consider When Choosing A Vitamin C Product?

 Many serums blend vitamin C with other antioxidants and vitamins. The right formula for you will depend on your skin type and concern, such as dry skin or anti-aging. 

If hydrating skin is a priority, look for a serum that also contains hyaluronic acid, a moisture magnet that can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, or glycerin, a humectant. Other serums contain additional fruit enzymes sourced from cloudberry, pomegranate or kakadu plums, to help exfoliate dead skin cells, which helps to leave skin looking and feeling softer. Some vitamin C serums contain ‘greens’ such as algae, spinach and kale for extra antioxidants.

Stability of your vitamin C product

L-ascorbic acid is a highly unstable molecule. It requires a water-based environment, a low pH, and antioxidants to increase its ability to deeply penetrate the skin. 

Those conditions are important for creating a stable and active vitamin C product. It is essential to understand why L-ascorbic acid requires these conditions when choosing a vitamin C product in order to find one that is effective and long-lasting. 

L-ascorbic acid has a reduced ability to penetrate the skin at its natural pH which is a result of its molecule structure. L-ascorbic acid is a charged molecule and is hydrophilic. These two characteristics mean that L-ascorbic acid will readily bind to water molecules, making it hard for the molecule to pass through the skin’s hydrophobic layers. 

Reducing the pH of a product to less than 3.5 or less makes it more acidic, allowing for L-ascorbic acid to penetrate deeper and be stable for longer.  However, reducing the pH of the product may lead to sensitization of the skin, as the natural pH of the skin is around. It is important to know the concentration of the product (more on that below). 

To create a more stable product that lasts longer, some formulations use different forms of vitamin C. This includes magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or ascorbyl-6-palmitate, which are more stable at a neutral pH. However, a study conducted by Duke University Medical Center found that these two substitutes did not increase the natural vitamin C levels in the skin.

Some formulations include other antioxidants to help stabilize the L-ascorbic acid. Studies have suggested that incorporating ferulic acid and vitamin E can increase stability and improve the product’s ability to penetrate deeply into the skin. 

A study published in theJournal for Investigative Dermatology found that ferulic acid stabilized the formulation and increased the protective capabilities of vitamin C to the sun’s effects.

L-ascorbic acid will only stay active in skincare products for a short period once opened. Even well-designed products will experience this, as exposure to the air will oxidize the L-ascorbic acid.  To increase a product’s longevity, look for powder formulations, products in vial form, or small product sizes. Look for products formulated with antioxidants such as ferulic acid. 

Concentration

Concentration is another critical element when considering which L-ascorbic acid products would best suit your needs. Some brands advertise a high level of vitamin C in their product, such as 100% L-ascorbic acid. 

While it may seem appealing to have concentrated products, formulas with more than 20% L-ascorbic acid can irritate the skin. Most dermatological studies have found that a range between 8-20% produces the best results with limited irritation. 

A study conducted by Duke University Medical Center found that the concentrations of L-ascorbic acid above 20% do not have increased skin benefits. The study determined that conversely, higher levels can negatively impact the skin’s condition. Sensitive skin types should use vitamin C products in the lower part of the range.

Synthetic or plant-based vitamin C

Occasionally brands won’t advertise the strength of the vitamin C content in the product but instead focus on the source. This lack of information regarding concentration tends to occur with formulations utilizing Kakadu plum, hibiscus, or other plant-based vitamin C sources. 

The issue with plant-based sources of vitamin C is that they tend to be low in concentration and are generally unstable. The strength of L-ascorbic acid in Kakadu plum is about 2% which means it cannot affect the skin in any significant way. 

The low concentration of L-ascorbic acid in plant-based sources and the instability of most natural sources is why most effective vitamin C products use a synthetic form of L-ascorbic acid in their formulations, including most clean beauty brands. 

Vitamin C products

Many product types can deliver vitamin C to the skin, including gels, serums and powders. L-ascorbic acid is a water-soluble molecule that requires a low pH and the inclusion of stabilizers and antioxidants, which means that most L-ascorbic acid formulations will be in a water base or dried form. Some are formulated in an oil base.

L-ascorbic acid delivered in gel or serums is absorbed quickly without adding extra moisturizing products which makes them suitable for oily or acne-prone skin. They also work well with an established skincare routine, as they avoid disrupting a working regime. Powder forms of L-ascorbic acid prevent the need for many stabilizers. They reduce the risk of decreased effectiveness through exposure to the sun and air as the product becomes active only when mixed with water.

Other types of vitamin C

The type of vitamin C often varies between formulations. As a vitamin C source, L-ascorbic acid is the most well-researched source and the source that has shown the most benefits to the body. Other forms of synthetic vitamin C used in skincare are mineral ascorbates, calcium ascorbate, magnesium ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate or tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.  The type of vitamin C and the type of product can have a significant effect on the efficacy of the product.

Studies have indicated that tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate might equal L-ascorbic acid in terms of effectiveness. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is an oil-soluble form of vitamin C that works alongside other products such as retinol. In a review conducted by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, evidence indicated that tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is more stable in solution, less irritating, and able to penetrate deeper into the skin, making it a promising vitamin C treatment. 

Can You Use Vitamin C with Retinol? 

Yes, you can but only if your skin and patience can handle it. If you want to use vitamin C and retinol together, start off slow. It’s best to apply vitamin C before your retinol product as vitamin C has a lower pH than retinol.

Let the vitamin C sink in first for 30 mins so that the vitamin C doesn’t interact with the pH of the retinol. 

The other way to combine these two ingredients is to alternate their use, use vitamin C one night and retinol the other.

Is Vitamin C Safe During Preganancy? 

Vitamin C- based products are considered to be safe during pregnancy. However, it is always best to check with your doctor before starting any new active product. 

References:
Al-Niami, F & Chiang, N 2017. ‘Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications’, The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, vol. 10, is. 7, pp. 14-17.
Chen, L, Hu, J, Wang, S 2012. ‘The role of antioxidants in photoprotection: A critical review’, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, vol 67, is. 5, pp.1013-1024. 
Murray, J, Burch, J, Streilein, R, Iannacchione, M, Hall, R & Pinnell, S 2008. ‘A topical antioxidant solution containing vitamins C and E stabilized by ferulic acid, provided protection for human skin against damage caused by ultraviolet radiation’ Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, vol. 59, is. 3, pp. 418-425. 
Pinnell, S, Yang, H, Omar, M, Monteiro-Riviere, N, DeBuys, H, Walker, L, Wang, Y & Levine, M 2001. ‘Topical L-ascorbic Acid: Percutaneous Absorption Studies’, Dermatol Surg, vol.27, is. 2, pp.137-142. 
Pullar, J, Carr, A & Vissers, M 2017. ‘The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health’ Nutrients, vol. 9, is. 8, pp. 866. 
Telang, P 2013. ‘Vitamin C in dermatology’ Indian Dermatology Online Journal, Vol. 4, is. 2, pp. 143-146. 
Yatskayer, M, Oresajo, C, Bhushan, P, Yano, S & Stephens, T 2011. ‘Clinical evaluation of an antioxidant gel cream containing vitamin c, ferulic acid and phloretin on photodamaged skin’, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, vol. 64, is. 2, pp. 24.
Wang, K, Jiang, H, Li, W, Qiang, M, Dong, T & Li, H 2018. ‘Role of Vitamin C in Skin Diseases’, Frontiers in Physiology, vol. 9, pp. 819.