Derived from Vitamin A, retinols have been used safely since the 1970’s.
But what exactly is retinol, how does it work, and should you incorporate it into your skincare regimen?
What is Retinol?
Retinol is derived from vitamin A.
Once it is absorbed into the skin, retinol it is converted into the active form called retinoic acid.
Your skin cells contain receptors for retinoic acid, which supports faster skin cell turnover, reduction in appearance of hyperpigmentation and support of collagen production, to be achieved.
Vitamin A or retinoic acid is used to improve the appearance of the skin. Studies have suggested that vitamin A may help reduce visible fine lines, pigmentation, blemishes, and may help to improve skin cell turnover. This is why retinoid products, like retinol, are so widely used by both women and men.
Think of retinols as multi-taskers and one of the hardest working products in your beauty arsenal.
What Does Retinol Do? What Are The Benefits?
Retinols exfoliate skin, purging it of old skin cells and help create new ones, which results in new, fresh skin with a smooth texture.
They also help to reduce the look pores and increase cell turnover inside the pore, making it less likely to clog with dirt and oil.
Retinols work by thinning the top layer of the skin, while thickening the smoother second layer (the epidermis), which makes skin look dewy and firm.
But perhaps retinol’s biggest claim to fame is that it supports boost collagen production. When it comes to tackling the signs of anti-ageing, collagen is key as it’s what gives skin elasticity and firmness. Think of it as a support structure for the skin, and keep in mind that collagen creation starts to diminish in the 30’s and gets worse every year
Here are the primary benefits of retinol:
Collagen
Retinol improves the appearance of your skin through several mechanisms. One is through the inhibition of collagenase, which is an enzyme that breaks down collagen. By preventing collagen degradation, the skin may appear more firm, and lines/wrinkles may be visibly diminished. As we age our ability to produce collagen decreases. Collagen is one of the molecules that is responsible for giving the skin firmness and structure.
Retinoids , including retinol work on the upper papillary dermis where collagen content can be increased by inhibition of collagen degradation. Topical retinoic acid or tretinoin, the strongest of the retinoids has been found to increase Type I collagen by 80% in photoaged skin. Thickening of the skin was also observed which helps to minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Skin cell turnover
Retinol has also been studied for its ability to initiate the increase of epidermal proliferation, which means it may help to support skin growth. The skin normally takes about 28 days from the first formation of a cell until that cell naturally sheds off. This process slows down as we age, which can lead to dry, dull skin as well as clogged pores – which can all exacerbate the look of fine lines. Retinol has been suggested to speed up this process to 14 to 16 days. This effect has been linked with a thicker skin and improvement in the appearance of fullness in the skin.
Exfoliation
Additionally, retinoids ‘exfoliate’ the skin by supporting the natural shedding of the skin. The uppermost layers of the skin are typically composed of 14 layers of densely packed dead skin cells. These dead skin cells form the protective barrier that prevents moisture loss, bacteria overgrowth, and damage. However, in some people, shedding this layer may help to improve pigmentation and reduce the frequency of blemishes. The use of topical retinol helps to slough off some of these surface layers.
The combination of rapid regeneration of cells may help to improve the appearance of aging skin and reduce the appearance of dark spots and blemishes. Over time these actions may improve the appearance of acne, soften the skin, lift dark spots and reduce the visibility of wrinkles.
Antioxidant
Lastly, retinol functions as an antioxidant to limit oxidative damage caused by free radicals.
Antioxidants help to prevent free radical damage. Free radicals are produced by a natural process in the body called oxidative stress, however, environmental factors such as UV rays, smoking, diet, and pollution can increase the number of free radicals in the body.
This increase can be detrimental, as free radicals have been linked with damage to the body’s cells and studies suggest that they may be linked to aging. The ability of retinol to work as an antioxidant may provide the skin with a little extra protection.
Hyperpigmentation
Retinoids are often used to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation. Retinol works on hyperpigmentation in a couple of ways. The first is that it may speed up the skin’s natural shedding process, removing the pigmented skin from the surface.
Retinol may also may work to influence the molecules that are responsible for pigment in the skin, melanocytes, allowing for regular, even arrangement of pigment in the skin.
The main thing to remember when using any retinoid product is that you need to use it in conjunction with sunscreen. This is particularly important when using retinoids for hyperpigmentation as the sun will contribute to the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
Aging
Retinoids are widely used to reduce the signs of aging on the skin. While the aging processes of the skin are highly complex and depend on genetic and environmental factors, retinol and its retinoid counterparts have been shown to help reduce fine lines and wrinkles as well as improve skin texture and laxity.
Many studies have been conducted on retinol specifically for its benefits to aging skin. Most of these studies demonstrate a significant reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Some studies have also indicated that retinol may reduce skin fragility and may help to support wound healing in aging skin.
How Does Retinol Work?
Retinol is a 20 carbon molecule that consists of a cyclohexenyl ring, a side chain with four double bonds and an alcohol end group. Don’t worry if you didnt get that, what is important to know to understand how retinol works is that the alcohol group is oxidated to form aldehyde, which can be further oxidized to form retinoic acid. It is the retinoic acid, a metabolite or byproduct of vitamin A or retinol that is used by the body.
Vitamin A cannot be produced by the body so it is a vitamin we absorb from our diet. Retinol and retinoids are required for several processes in the body including embryogenesis, reproduction, vision, growth, inflammation and cell regulation. So, retinol is an important molecule in the body and is involved in many other processes than just the skin.
What is the Difference Between a Retinol and Retinoid?
Retinols and retinoids all come from vitamin A – or they are produced synthetically. They have the same function but their main difference is their concentration. Retinoic acid is the strongest version and is available by prescription. It is also known as tretinoin or Retin-A. “Retinoids” is an umbrella term that includes both over the counter and prescription versions of vitamin A, while “retinol” refers only to the over-the-counter version.
Some products contain pro-retinols which are listed as retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinyl linoleate on the packaging. These are more gentle than retinol and can take longer to see results with them. However, one benefit of an over the counter retinol is that it may not cause as much irritation as a prescription strength version.
What If I’m Using Retinol For The First Time
If you have never used a retinol before, we recommend start slowly to prevent irritation and peeling.
Apply a small amount every third night and gradually build up to using it every night.
While you may see improvements in as little as a few days, it takes months to see more visible changes.
Make sure to incorporate a good moisturizer into your skincare regimen when using a retinol to offset any dryness. Take extra precaution when in the sun and be sure to apply a SPF daily — which everyone should do regardless of retinol use.
Can You Use Retinol When Pregnant?
The American Academy of Dermatology advises that pregnant and breast-feeding women should avoid using retinols. It is always best to discuss this with your doctor or specialist to determine if skincare choices may suit your situation or medical history.
Who Can Benefit from Using Retinols?
If well tolerated, retinol can be beneficial for anyone who is lookin to improve the appearance of their skin. Many people start using retinols in their mid-twenties but it’s never too late to start using them.
In general the products are suitable for all skin types but as it can cause irritation, anyone with dry, damaged or sensitive skin should proceed slowly.
If you are experiencing sensitivity it may be best to reduce the frequency of use, or even the time you have it on your skin. For example you can apply your retinol product for 10 mins then wash it off.
Listen to your skin, if it is irritated or sensitive step it back or discontinue use and speak with your doctor or dermatologist.
What is Encapsulated Retinol?
You may have seen some skincare products with “encapsulated retinol” as an ingredient. Encapsulated retinol works just like retinol but is delivered to the skin in a different way.
Encapsulated retinol is protected at a microscopic level so the potent ingredients are delivered slowly – which could help minimize irritation.
We recommend products with encapsulated retinol.
Are There Any Side Effects With Retinol?
Some people using retinols develop flaky, red and irritated skin so incorporating a good moisturizer to help soothe the skin is a must.
For some retinol users, the face can look worse before it starts getting better, in a process that is called “retinization.” This resolved for most people over time. If your skin looks particularly dry and flaky, resist the urge to exfoliate those dry spots away.
Some retinol users adopt a rotation method where they switch between a ‘work’ night, meaning they use a retinol on certain days, and take a break with a ‘nourish’ night where the focus is on soothing the skin with extra hydration through a mask or an oil based serum.
Using retinols can also make the skin more sensitive to the sun, so it is critical to wear a sunscreen with a high SPF every single day.
When using a retinol pay attention to your facial cleanser and make sure it isn’t stripping your skin. You may want to switch to a creamy or milk based cleanser that is extra gentle on the skin. Anyone with skin issues such as rosacea, eczema, psoriasis or sensitive skin may find that retinol is too much for their face; check with a health professional first.
Skip ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide and alpha hydroxy acids when using retinols as they can be too senstizing or drying to the skin when used in combination with retinol.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, a group responsible for the independent review of cosmetic and skincare ingredients has reviewed retinol. The Expert Panel evaluated available data and determined that is safe for use in its current indications and concentrations.
What Concentration Of Retinol Should I Use?
Over the counter retinol products come in a variety of concentrations, ranging from 0.01% up to 1%. What exactly does this mean? It comes down to the strength of the product, which is important as retinol can be irritating to the skin.
If you’ve never used retinol before, start with a low concentration and see how the skin tolerates it before moving up to a moderate strength, which tends to be from 0.04% to 0.1%. The highest percentage is between 0.5% and 1% retinol.
But bigger isn’t always better when it comes to retinol concentration. The skin will still gain benefits from a lower strength product, as consistency of use is key. But if your skin has plenty of sun damage, deep wrinkles and sun spots, you will want to build up to a stronger concentration.
Can You Use Vitamin C with Retinol?
Yes, you can but only if your skin and patience can handle it. If you want to use vitamin C and retinol together, start off slow. Its best to apply vitamin C before your retinol product as vitamin C has a lower pH than retinol. Let the vitamin C sink in first for 30 mins so that the vitamin C doesn’t interact with the pH of the retinol. The other way to combine these two ingredients is to alternate their use, use vitamin C one night and retinol the other.
However, we recommend using vitamin C during the day and retinol at night.
Can You Use Hyaluronic Acid With Retinol?
Yes. Retinol and hyaluronic acid can be used together and can be quite complementary. Hyaluronic acid helps to hydrate the skin and deliver water to the skin. As long as you use a moisturizer over the hyaluronic acid to trap in the moisture than they are fine to be used together.
Can You Use Acids With Retinol?
Acids such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, BHAs, or AHAs are often too irritatting to use alongside retinol. However, depending on the frequency and strength of both products they can be used together. However, proceed with caution and discontinue use if your skin become sensitive or irritated. You can always try the alternating trick if that helps as well.
When using any skincare p
References: Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2019;36(4):392-397. Shao Y, He T, Fisher GJ, Voorhees JJ, Quan T. Molecular basis of retinol anti-ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2017;39(1):56-65. Buchanan PJ, Gilman RH. Retinoids: Literature Review and Suggested Algorithm for Use Prior to Facial Resurfacing Procedures. J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2016;9(3):139-144. Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327-348.
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